Transcript MECHANICAL ADVANTAGE - Placer County Sheriff`s Mountain

ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS
ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS
TRAINING OBJECTIVES
ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS
TRAINING OBJECTIVES
Participants will understand:
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the components of a Rope Rescue System
the specific duties of Rope Rescue Team members
the Tandem Prusik Belay System
Lowering Belay
Raising Belay
understand Lowering Systems
Mechanical Advantage
Raising Systems
How to Reverse the System
ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS
ROPE RESCUE SYSTEM
Placer County Sheriff’s
Mountain Rescue Team
ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS
The Rope Rescue Team
ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS
ROPE RESCUE TEAM
ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS
ROPE RESCUE TEAM
• Safety Officer
• Operations Leader
• Systems Leader
• Medical Team Leader
• Belay Line System Operator
• Main Line System Operator
• Edge Tenders
• Haul Team
ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS
SAFETY OFFICER
ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS
SAFETY OFFICER
Rescue situations rapidly change.
The effective Safety Officer
must be able to forecast
potential safety issues.
ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS
SAFETY OFFICER
• The Safety Officer is responsible
for monitoring and assessing the
safety aspects of all team
operations, door-to-door.
ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS
SAFETY OFFICER
At least one team Safety Officer
should be assigned to every
rescue mission and training
event.
ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS
SAFETY OFFICER
Any member of the team can call
STOP to an operation if a
safety concern is detected
ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS
SAFETY OFFICER
1.
Scene Safety
–
Establishes, and marks
a minimum 6’ safety
zone at the edge
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All personnel must be
on a tether beyond this
safety zone
ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS
SAFETY OFFICER
1.
Scene Safety
Determine if the rigging
location is safe
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Loose rocks
Unstable overhang
Awareness of any
environmental safety
issues
• Poison Oak
• Hornet’s nest
• Requirements for Personal Floatation Devices
ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS
SAFETY OFFICER
1.
Scene Safety
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Checks each member’s
minimum PPE
•
Helmet
•
Gloves
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Harness
Establishes a Safe Zone
6’ from edge
ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS
SAFETY OFFICER
1. Scene Safety
–
Responsible for selecting
safe helicopter landing
zone.
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Assures an emergency
medical plan is in place
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Assures Horseplay does
not occur
ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS
SAFETY OFFICER
2.
System Safety
–
Checks each Anchor
•
Proper anchor
materials
•
Proper anchor for
situation
•
Bomb-proof anchor
system
•
Angles
ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS
SAFETY OFFICER
2.
System Safety
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Checks each system to
the component level
•
Knots
•
Proper carabiners in
use
•
Carabiners locked
•
Proper and adequate
edge protection in
place
ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS
SAFETY OFFICER
2.
System Safety
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Checks each System
•
Adequate MA
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Proper overall setup
•
Proper equipment
used
Checks for a “Kill Zone”
in the rigged system and
marks the kill zone area
ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS
SAFETY OFFICER
3. Edge Tender Safety
–
Edge tender has
independent anchor
–
Edge tender is tethered
before approaching the
edge
ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS
SAFETY OFFICER
4. Operation Safety
–
Assures change-over
procedures are conducted
in a safe manner.
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Assures adequate medical
resources are considered
when making search team
assignments.
ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS
SAFETY OFFICER
4. Operation Safety
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Monitors the entire operation.
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The Safety Officer can stop
the operation at any time.
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Monitor vehicle safety:
sleepiness and adequate
breaks on convoys.
ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS
RESCUE SYSTEMS
ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS
BELAY SYSTEMS
ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS
BELAY DEFINITIONS
1.
Belay – to provide protection against a fall by handling a
tensionless rope (belay rope) in such a manner that it may be
taken in or let out as another person(s) climbs, rappels, or
ascends a fixed rope or is raised, lowered or transported, yet be
secure to hold this load in case of failure of the main support.
2.
Self Belay – to provide protection against a fall by the person(s)
needing the protection moving their adjustable connection point along a
fixed rope, that remains without tension until the fall, as they climb, rappel
or ascend a different fixed, or are raised, lowered or transported, by a
separate rope.
3.
Conditional Belay – to provide protection against a fall by using a
rope, that is already under tension from all or part of the load, to hold the
load should a failure occur in some other part of the system.
(RFR BD-1 1996 adapted from BCCTR Notes prepared by Arnor Larson)
ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS
BELAY DEFINITIONS
4.
Conditional Self Belay – to provide protection against a fall
by the use of a conditional belay that is managed by the person(s)
needing the protection.
5.
Auto Belay – (“Deadman” Belay) a self activating belay that
does not require a positive action to engage it. The term auto can
be applied to any of the 4 types of belay listed above when it is
appropriate.
6.
Pseudo Belay – a belay that will not work; that is pretend,
counterfeit or false. The term pseudo can be applied to any of the
4 types of belay listed above when it is appropriate.
(RFR BD-1 1996 adapted from BCCTR Notes prepared by Arnor Larson)
ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS
TANDEM PRUSSIK BELAY SYSTEMS
ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS
BELAY SYSTEMS
• Rescue Systems Testing
The B.C. Council of Technical Rescue (BCCTR) started testing of
systems in 1982.
• The BCCTR has the following minimum standard:
with a 200kg mass (two persons + equipment = load) tied to 3
meters of rope, the belay system must be able to withstand a 1
meter drop of the load and stop it in less than 1 meter of additional
travel and with less than 15 KN of force (while retaining 80% of
system strength.
(copyright ©1990 – Arnor Larson)
ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS
BELAY SYSTEMS
• It is of great concern that a number of systems in present
use cannot manage this bare minimum!
• To date the only belay system tested successfully in
accordance with the BCCTR standard is the Tandem
Prusik Belay.
(copyright ©1990 – Arnor Larson)
ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS
BELAY SYSTEMS
• To date no Gibbs, rescuesender, or other mechanical
belay device tested has met the BCCTR 1 meter
minimum.
• Note: since 1990 the only mechanical belay device that
has meet the BCCTR standard is the 540° Belay
(copyright ©1990 – Arnor Larson)
ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS
BELAY SYSTEMS
ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS
BELAY SYSTEMS
ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS
BELAY SYSTEMS
ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS
BELAY SYSTEMS
ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS
BELAY SYSTEMS & FOCAL POINTS
ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS
BELAY SYSTEMS
Main & Belay Focal Points are down slope
ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS
BELAY SYSTEMS
• Where is the
belay line focal
point?
• Where is the
main line focal
point?
• Where’s Joe?
ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS
BELAY READY?
ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS
BELAY SYSTEMS – Proper Hand Position
ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS
TANDEM PRUSIK BELAY
ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS
TANDEM PRUSSIK BELAY with LOAD
ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS
TANDEM PRUSIK RAISING BELAY (Static)
ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS
TANDEM PRUSIK RAISING BELAY (Dynamic)
ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS
EDGE TENDER
ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS
EDGE TENDER
1. Edge Tender Safety
–
Edge tender has
independent anchor (may
share a bomber anchor
point, but may not attach
to system anchors)
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Edge tender is tied into
an adjustable tether
before approaching the
edge
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Clears loose rocks and
tripping hazards from the
edge
ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS
EDGE TENDER
2.
System Safety
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Places ropes on
appropriate edge
protection
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Assures ropes remain
on edge protection.
ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS
EDGE TENDER
1. Attendant Safety
–
Assist attendant and
stokes over the edge
ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS
EDGE TENDER
1. Attendant Safety
–
Weighting the system
before going over the
edge removes slack and
stretch in the main line.
20’ of rope in operation,
with a 2% stretch, will
result in 3”-6” of sudden
movement if the system is
not weighted.
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Tightening of knots
Stretch of rope
Rigging extension
ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS
EDGE TENDER
–
As attendant goes over the
edge, the “Lower slow”
used in approaching the
edge should be slowed
even more,
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The upper body of the
attendant is rotating
through an arc. For a brief
period, the feet are neither
moving back nor moving
down.
ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS
EDGE TENDER
–
Communicates with, and for, the attendant at the edge.
Halts system 1 meter from edge for tensioning
Edge Tender
“STOP!”
Ops Leader
“Why Stop?”
“Attendant tension
the system”
<attendant weights system>
“Lower slow”
“Lowering slow”
“Attendant at the edge”
<attendant rotates
over edge>
“Lower slow”
ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS
EDGE TENDER
–
Provides voice
communication between
Ops Leader and
Attendant to relay
changes in speed control
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Observes the path of the
rope to detect additional
rope hazards requiring
edge pro
ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS
ADJUSTABLE EDGE TENDER LEASH
•
8 mm Accessory cord
– Attached to independent
anchor
– Attached to harness with
Figure-8 on a bight and
locking carabiner
•
6 mm prusik cord
– Attached to 8mm cord
with prusik
– Attached to harness with
Figure-8 on a bight and
locking carabiner
ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS
RESCUE SYSTEMS
ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS
BELAY LINE COMMUNICATIONS
• “ON BELAY”
» “BELAY ON”
Is the belay ready?
Yes, the belay is ready
• “SLACK IN THE BELAY LINE”
» “SLACK IN THE BELAY LINE”
• “TENSION IN THE BELAY LINE”
» “TENSION IN THE BELAY LINE”
• “OFF BELAY”
» “BELAY OFF”
ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS
MAIN LINE COMMUNICATIONS
•
“MAIN LINE READY?”
» “MAIN LINE IS READY”
•
“LOWER SLOW”
» “LOWER SLOW”
•
“RAISE SLOW”
» “RAISE SLOW”
•
“LOWER FASTER”
» “LOWER FASTER”
•
“RAISE FASTER”
» “RAISE FASTER”
Is the main line ready?
Yes, the main line is ready
ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS
COMMUNICATIONS
• “STOP”
» “WHY STOP”
All Activity Stops
All Devices are Set
ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS
COMMUNICATIONS
Roll Call
OPS: “Stand by for roll call”
OPS: “On belay?”
BELAYER: “Belay on”
OPS: “Main line ready?”
MAINLINE: “Main line ready on four bars”
OPS: “Edge tender ready?”
BELAYER: “Edge Tender ready”
OPS: “Attendant ready?”
ATTENDANT: “Attendant ready”
OPS: “Medic ready?”
MAINLINE: “Medic ready”
ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS
BELAY COMPETENCE DROP TEST CRITERIA
• British Columbia Council on Technical Rescue
de facto standard
Belay Competence Drop Test Criteria
– 200 kg (440 lb) mass
– 1 meter (3.28 feet) fall
– 3 meters (9.84 feet) rope
– < 1 meter (3.28 feet) arrest distance
– Maximum 15 kN (3,375 lb) peak impact force
This test also calls for the maximum force transmitted through
the system to the anchor point to be no greater than 15 kN (3,375 lbf.)
ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS
BELAY COMPETENCE DROP TEST CRITERIA
•
Edge Transition is the
Worst Case Scenario
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Slippage through the
belay device
Tightening of knots
Stretch of rope
Prussic extension
Rigging extension
ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS
LOAD RELEASE
HITCH
ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS
LOAD RELEASE HITCH
•
The Radium 3:1 Load
Release Hitch (LRH) allows
the load on a rope grab to be
transferred to another device
•
The LRH is used in
conjunction with a tandem
prusik belay
OR
The LRH is used in
conjunction with a Progress
Capture Device (PCD)
•
ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS
LOAD RELEASE HITCH
•
Before employing the LRH
be certain that the load is
being transferred to a secure
anchor
•
If there is any doubt
regarding the safety of an
impact loaded LRH, it should
be retired
ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS
LOAD RELEASE HITCH
HOW TO TIE
•
Attach a Figure-8 on a bight
to the Load-side carabiner
•
Place the Figure-8 close to
the carabiner spine
•
Bring the standing part of the
cord up through the Anchorend carabiner
•
Place the standing part close
to the carabiner spine
ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS
LOAD RELEASE HITCH
HOW TO TIE
•
Bring the cord back through
the Lode-side carabiner
•
Place the cord on the Gate
side of the Figure-8
ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS
LOAD RELEASE HITCH
HOW TO TIE
Bring the cord back to the Anchorside and tie a Munter hitch
on the Gate side
Tie the Munter Hitch in the
Release position with the
standing end on the Gate
side
ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS
LOAD RELEASE HITCH
HOW TO TIE
Secure the LRH by forming a
mule knot around all three
cords
•
Position the mule knot
against the Munter hitch
•
Provides a 3:1 mechanical
advantage
•
Can hold heavy loads without
tightening
ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS
IMPROPER BELAY DEVICES
ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS
IMPROPER BELAY DEVICES
ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS
IMPROPER BELAY DEVICES
ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS
LOWERING SYSTEMS
Kurt Bandilla
ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS
LOWERING SYSTEMS
ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS
LOWERING SYSTEMS
• Brake Bar Rack
– Standard for MRT Lowering
systems
– A U-Shaped frame
– A series of bars
– Hyper-bar
• Tie Off
• Add Friction
ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS
LOWERING SYSTEMS
• Advantages
– Allows friction to be varied,
even when loaded
– Does not twist rope
– Can be easily attached to a
rope without detaching
from anchor
– Can use two ropes
– Can use varying sized
ropes
ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS
LOWERING SYSTEMS
• Disadvantages
– Bulkier and heavier than
other lowering devices
– May take slightly longer to
load the rope
ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS
LOWERING SYSTEMS
• Other Considerations
– Eye may be oriented 90o
– Rope should pass over the
loading groove
– Welded eye on the frame is
rated over 10,000 lbs. (44 kN)
ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS
LOWERING SYSTEMS
• Other Considerations
– Bars may be aluminum or
steel
– Bars come in a variety of
shapes
– Only use bars designed for
your brake bar
– Assure you are using a
rescue rated brake bar rack
ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS
LOWERING SYSTEMS
• Set up your anchor or check to
assure that an established
anchor is adequate
• Equipment that will be used
later is attached to the anchor
plate
ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS
LOWERING SYSTEMS
• Tie a figure-8 in the end of the
rope and clip to the large hole
in the anchor plate with a
locking carabiner
• This assures the rope does not
leave unexpectedly if someone
pulls the rope before the
system is complete
ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS
LOWERING SYSTEMS
• To have the lowering system
pass the whistle test, tie an
8mm prusik hitch to the anchor
plate with a load release hitch
• The disadvantage is having to
mind the prusik
ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS
LOWERING SYSTEMS
• Rig the rope through the brake
bar
• Advise Ops Leader,
“Main Line Ready to Lower!”
• Lock off the Brake Bar if it is to
be unattended for any length of
time
ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS
LOWERING SYSTEMS
• Tying Off
ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS
LOWERING SYSTEMS
• Brake Bar tie-off using the
hyper-bar
• Demonstrate Tie-off of Brake
Bar without hyper-bars
ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS
MECHANICAL
ADVANTAGE
REVIEW
ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS
• Gravity = Weight
– 1 kN = 224.81 lbf
– 1 Person ≈ 1 kN
– 2 Person ≈ 2 kN
– 3 Person ≈ 3 kN
ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS
– The average rescuer can
hold or apply a .2 kN force
with one hand (≈ 45 lbs)
– The average rescuer can
hold or apply a .4 kN force
with two hands (≈ 90 lbs)
– Hauling an rope ‘hand-overhand’ is applying a force of
45-50 lbs
ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS
• Impulse (force of impact)
– The average reaction time to
a failure or rope movement
is 1 sec
– In 1 sec a 1 kN load will
travel 16 feet
– The 1 kN load will be
traveling 21.8 mph
– A fall of 16 ft on 85 ft of
static rope will result in an
impact force of 13.5 kN
(3035 lbs)
ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS
BELAY INCOMPETENCE CRITERIA
•
Falls on a static rope
–
Fatal falls on a static
belay line would be the
result of belayers not
paying attention
–
What happens at 12 kN?
ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS
Pulley Types:
• Fixed pulley
– Provides change of direction
ONLY
ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS
Pulley Types:
• Movable pulley
– Adds Mechanical Advantage
ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS
• The longest distance a pulley system can be stretched,
the distance from the anchored pulley to the moving
pulley, is called the stroke.
• The longer the stroke, the more useful the MA system.
ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS
• If the terminal end of a haul line is attached to the anchor, the simple
pulley system will be EVEN
• 2:1, 4:1, 6:1, 248:1
ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS
• If the terminal end of a haul line is attached to the anchor, the simple
pulley system will be EVEN
• 1:1, 3:1, 5:1, 115:1
ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS
RAISING SYSTEMS
Clark Wurzberger
ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS
RAISING SYSTEMS
• Hauling without the aid of a
system is a Mechanical
Advantage of 1:1
• Also known as the
Armstrong Method
ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS
RAISING SYSTEMS
• Our simplest system is the Simple 2:1
Mechanical Advantage
• Components are:
– Rope
– One pulley
ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS
RAISING SYSTEMS
• Our basic haul system is the simple
3:1 Mechanical Advantage
• Components are:
– Rope
– Two (2) pulleys
– One (1) rope grab
ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS
RAISING SYSTEMS
• With the addition of a single
pulley, the 3:1 is converted to
a 5:1Mechanical Advantage
• Components are:
– Rope
– Four (4) pulleys
ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS
RAISING SYSTEMS
• Piggybacking the simple 2:1
onto the simple 3:1 provides a
compound 6:1Mechanical
Advantage
ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS
RAISING SYSTEMS
Setting and Resetting the System
Once the haul team has collapsed the system, it must be reset
to its maximum length so hauling can continue
Haul Prusik reaches Progress Capture Device (PCD)
Main Line Lead: “Stop . . . Resetting”
PCD is set by Haul Team Member
Haul Team Member setting PCD: “Set”
Haul Team Member fully extends the throw of the system
Haul Team Member extending system: “Reset”
OPS: “Raise Slow”
Do NOT use the words “Reset” or “Resetting” while actually extending
the system. Only use the word “Reset” when the task is fully completed.
ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS
RAISING SYSTEMS
• Piggybacking the simple 2:1
onto the simple 5:1 provides a
compound 10:1Mechanical
Advantage
ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS
REVERSING THE
SYSTEMS
ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS
REVERSING THE SYSTEMS
• Work on only one line at a time
• Change the Main Line first,
then the Belay Line
• Wait for direction from the Ops
Leader before you do anything.
• Don’t anticipate a change to the
system
ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS
REVERSING THE SYSTEMS
• Communicate
– Tell the Ops Leader what
you are doing,
before you do it
ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS
REVERSING THE SYSTEMS
• Throughout the conversion, the
system load will be on the Main
Line.
• The Belay line will be locked off or
continually tended
ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS
REVERSING LOWER TO RAISE
• Step 1
– Assure you have the
equipment you will need
• One Pulley
• One Progress Capture
Device (PCD)
ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS
REVERSING LOWER TO RAISE
• Step 2
– Lock off your lowering
device
ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS
REVERSING THE SYSTEMS
• Step 2
– Attach your Progress
Capture Device (PCD)
ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS
REVERSING LOWER TO RAISE
• Step 3
– Unlock the lowering device
and load the PCD
• Step 4
– Attach the pulley to the LRH
and rig the pulley
ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS
REVERSING LOWER TO RAISE
• Step 5
– Assemble your Haul pulley
onto the running end of the
rope
• Step6
– Assemble your Rope Grab
Device
ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS
REVERSING LOWER TO RAISE
• Step 5
– Attach your Rope Grab
Device
• Advise Ops Leader,
“Main Line Ready to Haul!”
ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS
REVERSING RAISE TO LOWER
• Step 1
– Assure you have the
equipment you will need
• One Brake Bar Rack
ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS
REVERSING RAISE TO LOWER
• Step 2
– Lower the Load onto the
Progress Capture Device
(PCD)
– Remove the pulley and
Rope grab and attach to
the anchor plate
ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS
REVERSING RAISE TO LOWER
• Step 3
– Load the lowering device
and lock it off
• Step 4
– Use the Load Release Hitch
to transfer the load to the
lowering device
ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS
REVERSING RAISE TO LOWER
• Step 5
– Remove the Progress
Capture Device
– Retie the LRH
• Step 6
– Prepare to Lower
• Advise Ops Leader,
“Main Line Ready to Lower!”
ROPE RESCUE SYSTEMS
• Tomorrow 07:30
• 24 hour packs
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Helmet
Harness
Gloves
Orange Shirts / Green pants
Lunch
Water